This post is updated below with more accurate information on the Anti-Skid warning and loss of all-wheel-drive for later models Volvos. If you are having similar problems with your car skip down to the update for the latest and more accurate diagnostic and repair information. Read through if you just want my inane commentary.
They will bench test your unit before they do anything. They found mine to be fully operational and refunded 100% of my money.
So why didn’t mine work? Well if you read the diatribe above you will see my DEM (held in place by two torx screws) was fused in place and I had to destroy it to remove it. This forced me to get a used one from a local U-Pull-It junk yard.
See this? This is a thermostat from my Volvo S60 R, normally
this is an easy to aquire $3 part, but these are not normal times Kato and the
S60 R is not a normal car.
I need to replace the thermostat because I got this and
other warnings on the illuminated Chicken Little, hypersensitive information center
on my dashboard.
This warning was basically telling me that I will spin out
of control, hit a tree, and die in a fiery death no later than next Tuesday
unless I take my car to my friendly Volvo dealer sooner than immediately. “Pishaw!”
I said to myself. I have a garage, a lift, an insane amount of tools, and the
glowing optimism of the village idiot who smiles too much and smells vaguely of
urine. I will fix these issues myself!
After some research (that’s what smart people do, right?) I
found that the main problem was this.
This is the traction control unit that detects slip and
engages the all-wheel-drive system. (this was not the problem, see update) When it stops working you get lousy
traction in bad weather and torque steer in good weather when you stomp on the
go-pedal. In the non-functioning mode you are basically running in
front-wheel-drive only. The observant among you will notice that the bolt
holding this unit onto the car is slightly mangled, we’ll get to the reason for
that shortly.
If you are not familiar with the S60 R here it is.
This was the performance version of Volvo’s midlevel sedan.
In my 2005 version it has a 300 horse power, 5 cylinder, DOHC, variable valve
timing engine with all-wheel-drive, and adjustable sport suspension. We need
this car because my wife Ginger must cross two mountains to get to work and
anything that won’t do the steepest twisting road in sixth gear at 80 miles per
hour is unacceptable.
Here is Ginger doing triple digit speeds on a lonely stretch
of highway while I take pictures and egg her on. When driven well the S60 R
will get you to your destination quickly and in comfort, when driven expertly,
you’ll arrive slightly younger than when you left
.
It may seem unseemly for two people approaching middle age
to drive like hooligans, but the way I figure it, the prospect of accomplishing
anything of note in my life is unlikely at this point. The best I can hope for
is to die in a spectacular fashion. My legacy will be a gruesome page-one photo
that some old man will look at briefly sitting in the local coffee shop, murmur
the one-word commentary, “idiot”, then turn to the sports page.
But, if you recall the warning lights mentioned above, the
Volvo’s power was intact but its control was not. It was like a 300 pound
football player who can’t hold his liquor; dangerous when provoked. So looking
around the interweb I found that the traction control sensor was at least $250
dollars and the ABS sensors could run as high as $400. The odds that both sensors,
located in opposite ends of the car, would go out at the same time seemed high
so I reasoned I would start with the traction control/AWD unit and proceed from
there. As luck would have it the local U-Pull-It junk yard had a wrecked Volvo S60
turbo the same year as mine. The sensor unit I needed for the traction control
was still on the car and for $15 it was mine. My R edition has the Brembo
brakes so the anti-lock brake sensors were not compatible.
I took my junk yard treasure to my garage and began the
butchery in earnest. The traction control unit is located near the rear
differential and held in with two torx head bolts and two electric plugs. It
seems inevitable that whatever is affixed with these demonic fasteners is
torqued just slightly above the tensile strength of the torx head groves of the
bolt; so stripping the head is inevitable (see photo above). Thus was the case
here, and what should have been a ten minute job ended up with cursing and swearing
set to the screeching rhythm of the Dremel tool. I had to cut the sensor away
in one inch strips to get to the top (stripped) torx bolt nestled snugly
between the body of the car and the rear differential.
It was an all-or-nothing play, with the old sensor destroyed
the junk yard unit had to work; surprisingly it did work and the traction
control warning was no more. This victory left the ABS sensor warning as my
only dooms day, dashboard prophet.
Before I spent the mortgage money on a new ABS sensor I
figured I’d pull all the wheels and check each electronic connection separately.
The last wheel pulled, the rear passenger side, had a severed wire on the wheel
sensor.
Some solder, shrink wrap, and electrical tape later and I
got this. For the first time in quite a while I had no warning lights. I hopped
in the car and took it for a vigorous test drive; no torque steer, and strong
brakes, success. (the Anti-Skid warning light would return a week later, see update)
I put the Volvo back into the garage and had lunch. After the
celebratory feast I planned to refinish the wheels on the S60 as the clear coat
was starting to peel. When I got back to the garage I put the car on the lift
to remove the wheels and as the front bumper was rising past my field of vision
I was confronted with the sight of a large puddle of coolant on the garage
floor. I think I know how a doctor must feel after performing a successful appendix
operation, only to have the patient die of an unrelated stroke in hospital
parking lot. Can I feel good for at least an hour?
After much rooting around it seems the leak is coming from
the thermostat housing. This would be an easy fix in most cars but in the Volvo
I had to remove the coolant overflow reservoir, the power steering reservoir,
the serpentine belt and the power steering pump to get access to the thermostat
housing which is secured to the car by two, seized, and soon to be stripped, torx
bolts. Let the games begin.
*Do yourself a favor if this coolant leak happens to you; do not be tempted to change the thermostat with a cheap parts store unit. Suck it up and buy the $200 unit and housing from Volvo (or find a used OEM unit). How do I know this, need you ask?
*Do yourself a favor if this coolant leak happens to you; do not be tempted to change the thermostat with a cheap parts store unit. Suck it up and buy the $200 unit and housing from Volvo (or find a used OEM unit). How do I know this, need you ask?
Marve Harwell 2014 (C)
Update and information learned the "hard way" also known as the expensive way.
Finally my S60 R is fully fixed and all four wheels are
providing the power and traction the Nordic Gods of automotive design intended.
If you are experiencing similar problems with your Volvo I have provided this
update with the list of procedures in steps that should be followed to save you
time, money, and grief. I know this to be true because I did everything the
wrong way and lost my lunch money in the process.
If you have an anti-skid warning on your Volvo’s dashboard display
and you are experiencing a loss of traction in bad weather or torque steer on
dry pavement check out the following:
1. If your car has close to, or more than, 100,000
miles on the clock the odds are you need to have the spline sleeve replaced. This
is a metal sleeve that links the transmission to the angle gear giving you AWD
as needed. Have this checked first, and be prepared to spend $500 or more to have
it replaced or remove the gear box to do it yourself. In most cases this will
fix the problem.
Follow this link for more info plus a way to
weld in the sleeve and never replace it again: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?164579-Never-replace-another-AWD-collar-sleeve-EVER-again!
2. If you have the spline sleeve replaced also have
the shop change the oil and the filter for the Differential Electronic Module (DEM)
located by your rear differential. You can do this yourself quickly. Ginger was
doing this while I was changing the engine oil and she was finished before I
was. I bought the DEM oil, filter, and gasket from the Volvo dealer for $54.
You will need a cooking syringe with a graduate on it to squirt the correct
amount of new oil into the filler hole.
3. If you do these two things and the anti-skid
warning light stays on or comes back on shortly after, it may be the DEM itself
(the Haldex unit pictured in the story above). These units are $2,000 new, but
hold on, because there are far less expensive alternatives.
You can have the unit reprogrammed by ASI for about $110, a little more if they have to replace any components. Here’s the link to their Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/ABS-ECU-ECM-EBCM-COMPUTER-REBUILD
You can have the unit reprogrammed by ASI for about $110, a little more if they have to replace any components. Here’s the link to their Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/ABS-ECU-ECM-EBCM-COMPUTER-REBUILD
They will bench test your unit before they do anything. They found mine to be fully operational and refunded 100% of my money.
So why didn’t mine work? Well if you read the diatribe above you will see my DEM (held in place by two torx screws) was fused in place and I had to destroy it to remove it. This forced me to get a used one from a local U-Pull-It junk yard.
What I didn’t know at the time is that these Haldex units run at different
processor speeds for different years.
Volvos built on or before 2004 require a
unit manufactured before June of 2004. 2005 and newer Volvos, like mine,
require a unit made on or after June of 2004. I found a used unit from a Volvo
breakers yard in Tennessee called Southern VoVo that was the correct year and is on my car and
working fine.
This is the WRONG Haldex unit for my 2005 S60 R. This unit was made February 12th, 2004. The date is in DAY, MONTH, YEAR format pictured above the bar code. |
4. If you do everything above and you still have
the warning light then you may have a communication or connection problem
between your DEM and the car’s computer. You have to take it to a shop that has
the proper equipment to test these systems. A hand held VIDA DICE diagnostic
tool will not do an accurate job in diagnosing these problems.
How do I know this? I have a friend who works for Haldex and he called corporate HQ in Sweden and talked to the engineers. They gave me a list of Volvo dealers in my area that had the proper equipment. The dealer checked my system for free; shout out to Lehman Volvo in Mechanicsburg, Pa, good people!
How do I know this? I have a friend who works for Haldex and he called corporate HQ in Sweden and talked to the engineers. They gave me a list of Volvo dealers in my area that had the proper equipment. The dealer checked my system for free; shout out to Lehman Volvo in Mechanicsburg, Pa, good people!
I hope this helps other lost souls
from repeating all the expensive mistakes I have made!
Marve Harwell © 2015.
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